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Second Avalon

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Olympus Om 4 Ti Serial Numbers !!BETTER!!

David you are right that the OM's are generally getting on in age, but Olympus was selling the OM4Ti in the US until at least 2002 or 2003. I bought what may have been one of the last batch from the Olympus eBay store in 2004 as a reconditioned unit. It was brand new. Unfortunately I don't know of a source for serial numbers, but I assume someone does, that could help figure out whether one is an early or late model.

olympus om 4 ti serial numbers

Okay, I went to look at the camera, and it is a genuine OM4 Ti. It seems in nearly pristine condition but for one thing, the viewfinder is terribly out of focus. I can't get it to focus a lens properly, and the meter at the bottom of the viewfinder is blurred as well. I noticed what appeared to be a diopter adjustment knob on the viewfinder, but I'm unsure how to work it. I wasn't able to get it to turn (I may not have been doing it correctly). Any advice? The battery check beeper does shut off after about 30 seconds, and the serial number is 117### (I live in Japan, BTW).

No need to check any serial numbers for production period: The OM-4T(i) has a white code in the film chamber reading TNxyz where x refers to the production year (C=1983, D=1984, ... L=1992, ...., V=2002=last production year, up to Dec.), y is the production month (1=Jan, ...9=Sept, A=Oct ... C=Dec), z=production day (sometimes in early models not shown). Your 1201605 should have TNLy or TNMy (produced 1992 or 1993). BTW, TN shows production at the Tatsuno plant (all OM-4T(i) were produced there).

The Olympus OM-system camera range fall into two main groups of bodies, the ones discussed in this article, designated by one-digit model numbers; and the two-digit models intended as lower-cost alternatives, the OM-10/20/30/40, dealt with separately.

Originally, the oldest M-1 and OM-1 bodies would not accept motor drive. The bottom cover had to be replaced (meaning a new serial number) and the MD switch added to mount a motor or winder. The entire slow speed governor, along with some brass speed cams had to be replaced. Oldest OM-1 body castings required holes drilled in 2 locations. Newer "old" OM-1 might only require the addition of the md switch and new bottom cover (switch calibration required). In 1974 the OM-1MD was launched (MD standing for Motor Drive), to which a motor drive can be attached with no modification. This new version wears a small plate marked MD on the front. Oldest OM-1 MD had the MD sticker on the top cover, next to the rewind release lever.

Apparently Zuiko made 4 versions of the 50mm f/1.4 lens over the years. An initial single coated version with a silver filter ring, a later version with a black filter ring, a multicoated version and then a version possibly starting at serial number 1.1 million and higher. In each version the elements were changed, though the same number and grouping was carried through out the lens design.

* But thisidentification may not always applies, because, technically, it is possible to changethe casing from new to older model or the other way round; further, some users fromisolated market reported of FM2n that came without a prefix. Off topic: The tinymetal tab under the serial number, hiding inside the film back rail is for framecounter reset.

The originalFM2's serial number doesnotalways has a prefix "N" or "T" in front of the serial numberas in the case of the FM2n or FM2/T as shown above which is similar to the earlyFM bodies. How accurate is this if one is to use it as a reference to differentiateboth models ? If you combine this with the earlier explanation ( Shutter speed dialof 1/200 sec sync speed marked in red), chances are almost none that you will makeany mistake.

The recentlylaunched FM2n "Dragon" (Millennium2000) commemorative model has a "YEAR 2000" followed by the serial numberxxxx/2000. In such case, the shutter speed dial at the top should able to tell thedifference.

A serial cable must be properly connected between the PC and the data logger. For example, some data loggers have two types of ports, and it is important to use the correct cabling for the one you are connected to. On Campbell Scientific data loggers, there are two types of 9-pin connectors: CS I/O and RS-232. With RS-232, you can either connect a straight-through cable between the RS-232 port on the PC and the RS-232 port on the data logger, or you can use a USB to RS-232 cable. If you are connecting to a CS I/O port, you must also use an RS-232 to CS I/O converter, such as the SC32B Optically Isolated RS-232 Interface.

The baud rate you select in the software must match the baud rate of the data logger serial port. For example, CR200-series dataloggers and CR10X dataloggers are always 9600 baud. CR1000 and similar data loggers can handle baud rates up to 115200. The CR1000 defaults to a baud rate of -115200, which means 115200 with autobaud enabled. The autobaud option tries to adjust the baud rate automatically to match the PC. Although autobaud is reliable at adjusting down the baud rate, it does have trouble adjusting up from 9600 to 115200. So, if someone else connects to your CR1000 at 9600 baud, you may have trouble connecting at 115200. After you successfully connect, you can change the baud rate setting for the serial port on the data logger.

If using Campbell Scientific software, a third party serial monitor program is generally not needed. LoggerNet has a LogTool client which will interpret the serial traffic for you and also provides a low level I/O display. LogTool can be found in the Tools category in LoggerNet.

I believe you are requesting the ability to do a low level IO log in a datalogger. It can be done with CRBasic code, but it is easier to do with a setting on the datalogger instead. The Files Manager in the Advanced settings on the datalogger allows logging traffic on a serial port to a file. There is help provided in the settings editor.

Apologies for exhuming such an old topic. Is it true that Windows 10 (probably 7 and 8 also) expressly forbids direct addressing of the serial ports, and does this affect your particular equipment? I have been stymied by this before - requiring ditching of the modern OS in favour of XP, and am now wrestling with a Wacom digitising tablet on a Win 10 system and I think the direct addressing issue has beaten me. Perhaps there is a workaround.

MV writes: Right on, Thom. Great review of a great camera. One comment: in the family tree the model with 1/250 sync and a titanium shutter is already an FM2n, not just an FM2 (the later model with aluminum shutter). The former has serial numbers N7xxxxxx, while the latter series has N8xxxxxx. Also, it might be worthwhile pointing out that the serial number is the only place where one finds the N suffix, and not in the camera name on the front panel.

Mike writes: I own an FM2n (sn 757xxxx) and it has the aluminium shutter. Other examples I have examined (738xxxx) also had an aluminum shutter, but a 734xxxx had the titanium shutter. I think around 750xxxx is when the final shutter change was made. [You could very well be right. Nikon is notorious for its obscure serial numbering practices, so I would almost always opt for a physical examination of a body in question before determining its exact model and attributes. I also wonder whether or not we're seeing some bodies that have had shutter replacements put in them. Does anyone know if Nikon always replaced a titanium shutter with a titanium shutter when they did warranty work? And the answer from a repair shop is: "the aluminum shutter blades are a better design and more efficient than the familiar honeycomb titanium blades. They are stronger where it counts, at the rivets holding the blades to the actuating arms. For those who stick their fingers through the shutter while loading film on a perfectly good camera, we only replace the blades in the shutter and not the entire shutter; the replacement blades only come in aluminum."]

Canon CanadaYou may obtain technical support* for your Product as follows:Telephone assistance from a Canon Canada Customer Care representative free of charge during regular business hours at 1-800-OK-CANON (1-800-652-2666)When you call, have your Product serial number and your date of purchase available to expedite service. A Canon Customer Care representative will attempt to diagnose the nature of the problem and correct it over the telephone. If the problem cannot be corrected over the telephone, you will be asked to follow the applicable procedures for MAIL-IN SERVICE. Note that a dated proof of purchase is required at the time of service. This requirement will be satisfied by providing a copy of your dated bill of sale.

I'm not the biggest fan of eBay, but there are so many cameras available there, that it's almost a no brainer, unless you're lucky enough to find a high street camera shop with a good selection of film cameras (easier said than done!). I found a really nice OM-4 Ti on eBay that came with the 'best' 50mm 1.4 lenses you could get. (apparently Olympus made many versions of the 500 1.4, and ones with a serial number over 1,100,000 are widely considered to be the one to get). The camera itself feels great to handle, and I instantly fell in love with the mechanical nature of everything. As I've used Fuji's mirrorless cameras for years, it was so satisfying to go back to the SLR ways, with a conventional viewfinder as apossed to the EVF that I've been so accustomed to. 350c69d7ab


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